The Death Whisperer Series

The Death Whisperer Series
The Death Whisperer Series available at https://www.amazon.com/author/dmichaelolive

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Wines for the football Season

I've got two really nice wines for you tonight. A refreshing white and a luscious red. Great for watching football in your home. Of course, being a Bears fan, the wine helps take the edge off continual disappointment.


Matua Valey Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $12.00: I am really impressed by the wines that come out of New Zealand. I haven't had a bad one yet and they offer tremendous value. Virtually every one is under $25.00. This sauvignon blanc was excellent. According to their website, Matua Valley Wines began as a small, family-run winery in West Auckland, New Zealand, in 1973. The winemakers are two brothers, Ross and Bill Spence. If you've ever had gooseberry jam (my grandmother used to make it), you'll like this wine. The bouquet is distinctly citrus and I tasted notes of gooseberry, intense grapefruit, pear and a touch of passion fruit in the mouth. Dry with a crisp, refreshing finish.


2006 Novy Sonoma County Syrah, $19.00: The Wine spectator gave this wine 90 points and I've never had a wine rated that highly by them that I didn't like. Syrah is the great red grape of the Northern Rhone, responsible for such fine wines as Hermitage and Cote Rotie. Big, dark and spicy, wines made from this varietal can age as well as Bordeaux. The varietal is gaining popularity in the United States as well as other countries. Since the 1970's, Syrah has spread throughout the Southern Rhone, and Provence regions of France, where it is being bottled as a single varietal wine or in blends. This wine had an explosive nose with cherry and berries enveloping my senses. It had incredible layers of raspberry, cherry, blackberry, a touch of blueberry, and chocolate in the mouth. It's soft, velvety and dry and has only a mild taste of alcohol. Very nice. I will definitely lay in a few bottles of this one.

Oh my gosh! the Bears beat Philadelphia. the world will probably end tomorrow so I've gotta finish this syrah.

Ciao!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

German wines

Some of my favorite wines are from Germany. I love Rieslings, Spätleses and Ausleses. Of course the question that always arises is “What’s the difference?” Since I’m going to review a Hirschbach & Söhne Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Spätlese classified as a Qualitätswein mit Prädikat, I thought it might be a good idea to give a little background on the wines to Germany along with the review. German wines are produced according to a quality scale based on the ripeness of the grapes at harvest time. In general, riper grapes produce richer, more complex wines. So, here goes:

Qualitätswein/QbA. [kval-ee-TAYTS-vine] German for “quality wine.” QbA is an acronym for Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete, which means a quality wine that comes entirely from one of the 13 designated wine regions in Germany. This is an estate’s basic wine and can often be a very good value, especially from top-rated producers. Chaptalization (adding sugar to improve ripeness) is allowed in QbA.

Qualitätswein mit Prädikat/QmP. The word Prädikat [PRAY-dee-cot] literally is the grammatical term, “predicate.” Prädikat wines are “predicated” on a certain level of quality, of which there are six: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. These are the finest of German wines. No chaptalization is allowed.

Kabinett. This is typically the lightest and most delicate style that an estate will produce. Kabinett is made from normally ripe grapes picked early in the harvest. In a region like the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Kabinett will be quite light and delicate, with just seven to eight percent alcohol. These wines tend to be light and fruity. They are great everyday wines.

Spätlese. [SHPAYT-lay-zuh] German for “late-harvest.” Spätlese has more richness and body than Kabinett because the grapes are allowed to ripen for an extra week or more. Once harvested, the wine can be fermented fruity (lieblich), half-dry (halbtrocken) or dry (trocken), depending on the preferences of the winemaker. Most are a bit sweeter than the Kabinetts. They also have a higher alcohol content.

Auslese. [OWS-lay-zuh] Auslese means “selected from the harvest.” This is the Prädikat level for overripe, late-harvested grapes that are selected cluster by cluster. Often made in the fruity style with residual sweetness, Auslese is considered by most winemakers to be their finest achievement (aside from the rare dessert wines). The sweetness comes from allowing a mold, the botyris, to grow on the grapes. The grapes begin to shrivel and the sugar content is more concentrated. Top winemakers often make several Auslese from different selections based on botrytis levels. In this case, the wines are distinguished by AP Number, by gold and long gold capsules or by stars after the vineyard name, depending on the winemaker's preference.

Beerenauslese/BA. [BEAR-en-ows-lay-zuh] Beerenauslese means “berry selection.” Beerenauslese is a rare dessert wine made from extremely overripe grapes that are fully shriveled by the botrytis mold. The grapes are selected one berry at a time. It’s a tedious process and results in a magnificent dessert wine, very sweet and $$$!

Eiswein. [ICE-vine] Quite literally, ice wine. One of the rare dessert wines, made from overripe grapes that have frozen solid on the vine. They are harvested and pressed while still frozen, so that only concentrated grape juice is extracted. Most of the water stays in the press as ice, so the resulting wine is very concentrated.

Trockenbeerenauslese/TBA. [TRAW-ken BEAR-en OWS-lay-zuh] Germany’s greatest and rarest dessert wine. Trocken (dry) here refers to the individually selected berries, which have been completely shriveled by the botrytis mold. It does not refer to the taste of the wine, which is quite the opposite of trocken. They are very sweet and rich. You should have them with a selection of cheeses or alone as they are extremely filling.

So, tonights wine is a Hirschbach & Söhne Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Spätlese classified as a Qualitätswein mit Prädikat. From the information above, you should be able to recognize that it's a high quality with a fair amount of richness and complexity. This wine has a bouquet filled with apple and honey. In the mouth it has ripe floral, apricot, and citrus flavors overlayered with a slight honey taste. Not overly sweet but very fruity with a bit of minerality to it. Nice wine.

So, until next time,

Aufwiedersehen!

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Wines From My Chicago Vacation

Back from vacation and after eating pizza, hotdogs, and White Castle cheesesliders all week, I'll be hitting the crosstrainer for some extra time. New wines for you:

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet 2005: $14.00: Elegant, bold, rather complex for a wine at this price. Long finish. Good fruit, a hint of vanilla and a touch of oak. Excellent for any ocassion.

Firesteed Pinot Noir 2006: $15.00:Oregon Pinot's are generally some of the best in the U.S. and often their prices reflect it. So, Firesteed is a nice find. Medium bodied; Ruby red ;Cherry & berry bouquet. Bright cherry and berry flavors with hints of earth and vanilla, and a refreshing Pinot at less than half the price of many bottlings.

Dalla Vina 2004 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley: $24.00: Cabernet Franc's as some of my favorite wines, but they're hard to find. Very few people know about them and I have to special order them from my local wine shop. They're sort of a softer Cabernet Sauvignon, somewhere between the Cab and the Pinot. Very smooth. This wine assaults your nose with a huge bouquet of currants, spice, vanilla, notes of herbs, cola and violets. The palate is deep, flavored with of black cherry and black currant with hints of coffee and toasty oak. The wine screams “Grill me a steak!”
More later.

Right now I'm sipping a Hirschbach & Sohne Riesling Spatlese which I'll review later. Gotta tell ya, though, it's killer.

Ciao!

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Chicago

Tonight, I’m writing from the Marriott Suites in Oakbrook outside Chicago. I’m actually taking six days of vacation and Chicago is my home town, a place I love to come back to. Now, although I’ve eaten at some very upscale places in Chicago, i.e. Charlie Trotter’s, when I come home, I go for my favorite comfort foods. Nothing glamorous, and in almost all cases, not particularly healthy…but delicious!

First up: Hot dogs. Chicago is known for them and don’t give me any crap about New York. I lived in New York as a child and have been back to visit and both their hot dogs and pizza are inferior. What is that brown garbage they put on a hot dog in New York anyway? You call that sauerkraut? Chicago has the largest Polish population outside of Warsaw and the sauerkraut you get on your dog is the real thing. A Chicago dog has a Vienna dog topped with things like bright green sweet relish, yellow mustard, onions, tomatoes, a dill pickle slice, and, if you feel like it, hot peppers. Or you can have it with sauerkraut too. It’s a complete meal. My favorite place is Henry’s on Ogden Avenue just west of Austin Blvd. For $2.39 you get a dog with fries wrapped up in a single large piece of wax paper. I usually order three at a time. No wine or beer as they don’t have a license. Just go with a soft drink.

Next, pizza. Deep dish was invented here. None of that soggy flat anemic crap you get in New York. My favorite is stuffed pizza, another Chicago tradition. Giordano’s invented it, and I’ve been eating it since the original one opened in Marquette Park. Now they’re pretty much all over Chicago. The pizza consists of a thin crust layered over the bottom of a deep pan. Then they fill it with cheese, and other goodies, top it with a second thin crust, incredible tomato sauce, and you’ve got a two inch behemoth. It comes in 10, 12, and 14 inch sizes. My wife and I split a medium and take the leftovers back to our hotel for a late night snack. The pizza is filling, so rather than a beer, we go with a red wine. In this case, I recommend a Clos du Bois Merlot, deep red color, fruity bouquet, and a blend of cherry, raspberry, and cassis flavors. For two, get a bottle. It’s 7.25 per glass. Tonight, ours was stuffed with cheese, spinach and mushrooms. My favorite, however, has Canadian bacon and mushrooms. The best in the world, no argument.

Now, I’d be remiss if I didn’t hit my favorite place for breakfast—Omega’s on Ogden Avenue, just west of Main Street in Downers Grove. The restaurant is Greek and has all kinds of comfort food for lunch and dinner, but I go for breakfast. Great omelets, with my favorites being feta cheese or lox and onion. Also the traditional ham, cheese, etc. But if you go, I would recommend one of two breakfast entrees. The first is their junior apple pancake. It’s more like a coffee cake, about 9 inches in diameter and an inch thick filled with apples, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a custard-like dough, baked to perfection. Under no circumstances get the regular size. The junior is more than enough! The second thing to try is the Dutch baby miniature pancake. It’s like a giant puffy turnover and you smother it in butter, maple syrup and a touch of fresh squeezed lemon. The large size is called a German pancake but it’s big enough to feed the state of Connecticut.

Back at the hotel, I like to stop at a liquor store and buy a bottle or two of wine rather than get anything from the hotel. The average mark up at a hotel is at least 3X plus, if you order through room service, there’s a service charge, built in tip, etc. A $15.00 bottle of wine will cost you $50.00. So, first I tried a New Zealand Riesling as their wines are really outstanding. The wine was a Giesen East Coast Riesling, $13.00. Wow! What a find! Surprising. Clean, crisp, and slightly sweet, but not as cloying as some Rieslings. Sort of midway between a traditional Riesling and a Sauvignon Blanc. Hints of citrus with a touch of honey. Refreshing. This is one of the best whites I’ve had in a while and I’ll definitely look for this back home.

That’s it for now. I’ve still got three bottles of wine to review…but I’ve got to drink them first. So until next time.

Ciao.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Chicago, My Home Town

Tonight, I’m writing from the Marriott Suites in Oakbrook outside Chicago. I’m actually taking six days of vacation and Chicago is my home town, a place I love to come back to. Now, although I’ve eaten at some very upscale places in Chicago, i.e. Charlie Trotter’s, when I come home, I go for my favorite comfort foods. Nothing glamorous, and in almost all cases, not particularly healthy…but delicious!

First up: Hot dogs. Chicago is known for them and don’t give me any crap about New York. I lived in New York as a child and have been back to visit and both their hot dogs and pizza are inferior. What is that brown garbage they put on a hot dog in New York anyway? You call that sauerkraut? Chicago has the largest Polish population outside of Warsaw and the sauerkraut you get on your dog is the real thing. A Chicago dog has a Vienna dog topped with things like bright green sweet relish, yellow mustard, onions, tomatoes, a dill pickle slice, and, if you feel like it, hot peppers. Or you can have it with sauerkraut too. It’s a complete meal. My favorite place is Henry’s on Ogden Avenue just west of Austin Blvd. For $2.39 you get a dog with fries wrapped up in a single large piece of wax paper. I usually order three at a time. No wine or beer as they don’t have a license. Just go with a soft drink.

Next, pizza. Deep dish was invented here. None of that soggy flat anemic crap you get in New York. My favorite is stuffed pizza, another Chicago tradition. Giordano’s invented it, and I’ve been eating it since the original one opened in Marquette Park. Now they’re pretty much all over Chicago. The pizza consists of a thin crust layered over the bottom of a deep pan. Then they fill it with cheese, and other goodies, top it with a second thin crust, incredible tomato sauce, and you’ve got a two inch behemoth. It comes in 10, 12, and 14 inch sizes. My wife and I split a medium and take the leftovers back to our hotel for a late night snack. The pizza is filling, so rather than a beer, we go with a red wine. In this case, I recommend a Clos du Bois Merlot, deep red color, fruity bouquet, and a blend of cherry, raspberry, and cassis flavors. For two, get a bottle. It’s 7.25 per glass. Tonight, ours was stuffed with cheese, spinach and mushrooms. My favorite, however, has Canadian bacon and mushrooms. The best in the world, no argument.

Now, I’d be remiss if I didn’t hit my favorite place for breakfast—Omega’s on Ogden Avenue, just west of Main Street in Downers Grove. The restaurant is Greek and has all kinds of comfort food for lunch and dinner, but I go for breakfast. Great omelets, with my favorites being feta cheese or lox and onion. Also the traditional ham, cheese, etc. But if you go, I would recommend one of two breakfast entrees. The first is their junior apple pancake. It’s more like a coffee cake, about 9 inches in diameter and an inch thick filled with apples, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a custard-like dough, baked to perfection. Under no circumstances get the regular size. The junior is more than enough! The second thing to try is the Dutch baby miniature pancake. It’s like a giant puffy turnover and you smother it in butter, maple syrup and a touch of fresh squeezed lemon. The large size is called a German pancake but it’s big enough to feed the state of Connecticut.

Back at the hotel, I like to stop at a liquor store and buy a bottle or two of wine rather than get anything from the hotel. The average mark up at a hotel is at least 3X plus, if you order through room service, there’s a service charge, built in tip, etc. A $15.00 bottle of wine will cost you $50.00. So, first I tried a New Zealand Riesling as their wines are really outstanding. The wine was a Giesen East Coast Riesling, $13.00. Wow! What a find! Surprising. Clean, crisp, and slightly sweet, but not as cloying as some Rieslings. Sort of midway between a traditional Riesling and a Sauvignon Blanc. Hints of citrus with a touch of honey. Refreshing. This is one of the best whites I’ve had in a while and I’ll definitely look for this back home.

That’s it for now. I’ve still got three bottles of wine to review…but I’ve got to drink them first. So until next time.

Ciao.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Washington D.C. eatin

Today, we’re off to Washington D.C. The first restaurant is my namesake—Olives. It’s at 1600 K Street (202)-452-1866. This ain’t the Olive Garden. It’s a Todd English restaurant. Beautiful atmosphere. First floor has a bar and about a dozen tables. Both times I’ve been here, I managed to get a table downstairs where it’s a little quieter. The first time they gave me a special table when they saw my name was Olive. White table cloths, several booths, and very elegant service. On each table are two bowls of green and kalamata olive tapenade for dipping with flat bread. I enjoy olives this way and it’s a nice change from just bread and butter.

I love bibb lettuce and they have a very nice bibb lettuce salad, with thinly shaved onions, a walnut dressing, and sprinkles of Maytag blue cheese. I have to be careful or I could eat several of these. Don’t want to get too healthy! One appetizer that I think is amazing is his Tuna tartare. It’s thinly sliced sushi-grade tuna with a compote of pureed cucumbers, topped with rock shrimp and a scallion crème. Take me now, Lord! Two main courses stand out. The first is pan-seared sea scallops with corn-filled ravioli, morels (a type of mushroom), Smithfield ham, and a fava bean succotash. Scallops can be tricky. Undercook them and they’re mushy (yech!). Overcook them and they resemble a superball. These were cooked perfectly, very sweet and juicy. A glass of Schloss Schönborn Riesling Kabinett and I was good to go.

The second entrée (forgive me Nebraska) is a wood grilled sirloin topped with wasabi butter complemented by rockfish fried rice and a stir fry of vegetables. The wasabi butter really goes with the sirloin which I had medium rare. Nice and pink but the cow didn’t “moo” when I stabbed it with my fork. Wine with the sirloin was a glass of Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot, with lots of fruit, jammy raspberry, and easy drinking.

Olives also has some very nice pastas but I always find them a bit heavy. For dessert, molten chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream. The cake has a center of molten dark chocolate and being a chocolate lover, it’s definitely worth the calories. So much for weight watchers.

The next restaurant is a bit odd. I spend a lot of time in airports. I got caught in National Airport in D.C. with a bunch of delays and a lot of time to kill. Needless to say, airport food isn’t fit to feed your dog…usually. National is home to a funky little wine bistro called Cibo’s Bistro and Wine Bar. What a find! I spent two and a half hours here the first time and it’s now a regular on my trips through D.C. I started with lunch and a glass of Chateau St. Michelle Riesling. Lunch was a brie cheese and prosciutto Panini. Wow! What a sandwich! Since I had about six hours to kill, I went back for “dinner,” which was an Ahi Tuna BLT. Seared Ahi tuna, bacon, chopped tomato, chopped lettuce and a pesto aoli nestled on a chiabatta bun. Had a glass of Whitehall Lane Sauvignon blanc. Honestly, I’ve never had sandwiches this good and in an airport no less.

Well, that should give you some place to eat in D.C. Gotta go finish packing. I’m actually taking five days of vacation. Off to Chicago and the world’s best pizza (Giordano’s) and hotdogs (Henry’s). I’ll report back in a week.

Ciao!

San Francisco

Tonight I'm going to take you to San Francisco. I have three lesser know restaurants that are medium priced, somewhat funky, with good food. I usually stay at the Marriott (nice beds) and the first restaurant, Annabelle's Bistro & Bar, is just across the street. It looks kind of like a dive from the outside with a big neon sign. But continue in. As you enter, you'll find yourself in front of a long, polished wood bar. There are high tables against the walls. Just behind the bar is the entrance to the restaurant. It's small, maybe 15 tables. The floors are black & white tile and the wait staff is all in black. The kitchen is open at the back. I started with a baby spinach salad topped with walnuts, dried cranberries, apples and blue cheese vinagarette. The menu changes but the last time I was there, I had Scottish salmon on a bed of sautéed spinach and mashed potatoes, topped with a beurre blanc (wine & butter) sauce and onion strings—very nice! Ordered a glass of Whitehall Lane Sauvignon blanc for my wine of the night. I happen to be a nut for crème brulee so that was my dessert. It was a good one.


Next, is First Crush at 101 Cyril Magnin St. It's on a corner but it's easy to miss. You walk in and up a flight of stairs. It's on one of those San Francisco hill streets so the back door is flush with the street, even though you walked up the stairs to enter. It's small, about 12 tables and is a long narrow space, fronted by a bar facing the tables. The walls are burnt orange and shear curtains hang on the floor-to-ceiling windows. Hardwood floors, and wood tables complete the atmosphere.


They offer something that I think is excellent for someone learning about wines—wine flights. If you've never had one, they usually consist of an assortment of three to four 2 oz glasses of different wines. It allows you to sample and develop your tastes for what you like without getting snookered. I chose one consisting of a Pinot blanc, a Riesling, and a gewurtztraminer. The gewurz is slightly sweet, like a Riesling or spätlese but with a touch of spice. I started with a tomato, avocado, and cucumber salad topped with Kalamata olives. Feta cheese was crumbled over the top. For my main course, I had halibut topped with sautéed mushrooms in a tarragon beure blanc sauce. Splurged a bit on dessert. Bread pudding with browned apple compote and rum raisin ice cream—heavenly! Also relaxed with a glass of Lemorton Reserve Calvados.


Last but not least, down by the pier are a ton of seafood restaurants. Virtually all of them are crap—tourist joints that focus more on the experience of S.F. than decent food. However, at pier 7 on the Embarcadero, you'll find the Waterfront Restaurant. It juts out into the bay with big windows for watching the boats and the lights of Berkeley and Oakland. The seafood is superb. Start with grilled pancetta (Italian bacon) wrapped prawns or buttermilk-fried calamari with rock shrimp and a spicy aoli (like a mayonnaise). While they have some good salads, I usually skip them and go straight for the main course. Great, simply grilled fish. My favorites are escolar, ahi tuna, and scallops. Or if you can't decide, try the scallops and prawns. Wine for the night was a Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve Carneros-Napa Valley, about $50.00 in my wine store at home. Rich and buttery, yet surprisingly light and delicate. Dessert? You guessed it—Crème brulee.


Well, that should give you a taste of San Francisco. I'll be out there in December speaking at the American Society for Cell Biology. If you're around, I'll be at the "W" hotel (Marriott was booked). Give me a call and we'll share a bottle.


Ciao!

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Eating around the country

Several people who've read my books (including the new one due out in November) have been intrigued by the restaurants I mention. I've had to travel quite a bit with my job (no, it's neither glamorous nor fun!) and I keep a diary of hotels I've stayed at, restaurants I've tried (good and bad), meals I've had, and, of course, wines I drank. So I thought I'd give out a little of my personal travel guide tonight. Because the city and its people have really taken it in the ear the last three years, tonight I'm going to talk about New Orleans. It's one of my favorite places to visit and has some of the greatest restaurants in the U.S. Let me note that reservations are a must at each of these restaurants and you usually have to make them a week in advance. I usually make the reservation on line the week before I go if I think I'll have trouble getting in, but you can always call.
Really Upscale:
Two of my favorites are the Commanders Palace and Brennens. Commanders has been the training ground for many of New Orleans most famous chefs, including Emeril Lagasse. I'm not going to recommend anything in particular but I will say you'd better be prepared to spend over $100.00 per person without drinks at these two. Food is incredible. Dress code requires a coat and tie for the gentlemen. Hey, it's high class at its best! Personally, I think Commanders is probably the top restaurant in the U.S. That's just my opinion.

Moderate:
K-Paul's is where the Cajun food craze began. Chef Paul Prudhomme is responsible for making Cajun food, including blackened everything, popular. His restaurant used to be a pain to visit as they didn't take reservations. But now it's changed, thank goodness! The restaurant looks like a cheesey storefront on Chartes street, but entering, you're faced with a warm, cozy atmosphere. Exposed brick walls, tall windows, and gleaming hardwood floors. Dress is business casual. For an appetizer, try the turtle soup. Don't make that face! It's like a New York clam chowder only with sherry. My favorite entrée is his Shrimp Etoufee. If you've never had it, this is the place to try it. It is to die for. If you'd rather have fish, try the blackened Louisiana Drum. It's a white meaty fish, blackened and succulent. If he has it, try his swordfish. It too, is outstanding. If you'd rather have meat, definitely go for the veal chop with crabmeat, wild mushrooms, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes. It's divine. Dinner is served with an assortment of homemade rolls, my favorite of which are the black strap molasses buns. For dessert, try the bread pudding with lemon sauce & Chantilly cream or the sweet potato pecan pie. If you're a crème brulee fan, he makes a good one.

Redfish Grille is, in my humble opinion, the best place for fish in town. It's just off Canal street on Bourbon street. As soon as you sit down, before you even open the menu, order dessert. That's right, I said order dessert. Double chocolate bread pudding! You have to order it ahead because it takes 20 minutes to make. For starters, coconut crusted shrimp or their crab cakes are good choices. I always feel I need to have something green so I usually get their shrimp remoulade salad. It consists of Cajun boiled shrimp over a bed of romaine hearts tossed with a remoulade (think thousand island with a bit of spice) dressing, hard boiled eggs, applewood-smoked bacon, and tomatoes. They top it with a fried potato puff. Now, I know some people barf at the mention of this fish, but put your prejudices aside…and order the catfish. They make it a number of ways and all are fantastic. Catfish is a white, flaky fish, no bones, just great meat. My favorite was stuffed with crabmeat and had a creamy tomato-sherry based sauce. Ah, now for dessert. The double chocolate bread pudding comes in a soufflé dish with two hunks of white and dark chocolate stuck in the middle. The hot bread pudding causes the chocolate to melt slowly. But that isn't all. They drizzle a mixture of melted white and dark chocolate over the top. I'm dying here just writing this. Once you've had it, you can die and go to heaven. It don't get no better than that.

Just a note about Bourbon Street. In spite of mythology, it's a dump. The smell of stale beer, urine, rotting trash, and vomit permeates the air as you walk further in so stay near Canal. While some of the music may be interesting, it's mostly strip joints and sheisters trying to take your money. My recommendation, if you want music, is to head down to the Hilton Hotel (where I usually stay) at the end of Canal Street on the river and hit Pete Fountain's jazz club. Classy, comfortable, and good music.

In the next few blogs I'll hit San Francisco, Boston, Naples (FL), New York, Chicago, Kansas City and more.

Ciao!